Life in the Amazon Jungle – Kusutkau Village
Note: My apology that this is “late” but in any case, I think you’ll enjoy this amazing experience. I will have more photos up soon.
We had the privilege of spending one evening and one morning in one of the Achuar villages, a 30 minute boat ride up the river from our lodge. Since we 
would be engaging in a couple of Achuar ceremonies, we were briefed by our guide on the social nuances in which we’d engage. We couldn’t just cruise in and start chatting, there was a manner in which these people interacted that was relevant and respectful. We were also told that no photo taking was allowed…
Apparently many years ago one of the Achuar villages (“the people of the aguaje palm”) was visited by some outsiders who wanted to film their existence. After this visit something “bad” happened in that village and the people there equated the mishap to the photos that were taken (don’t ask me why). Since that time photo taking is prohibited. Initially I was disappointed with this prospect. But as our visit progressed I realized the immense value in just being there engaging without having to wonder whether I was missing a good photo op. I remained focused on the nuances and interactions of the people rather than working to capture an image.
Most villages in this region are built on what look like (and is) a dirt landing strip for a small plane or helicopter. Foot and boat travel are these peoples only means of getting from one place to another, but they realize that if an emergency arose they would be ‘stuck’. So at some point they started building landing strips down the middle of their villages for Cessna or helicopter access. I do not know how they contact someone with a plane but apparently they have a system.
Achuar life centers on the domestic household, which consists of a primary family unit but can include close relatives. There are usually about ten to fifteen households within the village. Marriages are typically polygamous though in the family we visited the husband chose to have only one wife because he felt that focusing his time on fewer children and wives helped create a more prosperous and less conflicted environment.
We arrived by river and climbed a short embankment to the village site. I noticed immediately how friendly and aggressive the children were – not to us but to each other. Watching them play, climb trees with their feet and hands like a black bear, and push each other around, reminded me of watching wolf puppies in the wild. If you live in a harsh and tough land you’d better learn how to match the land or you don’t survive. During our visit I witnessed children of all families in this village, caring for each other, wandering off into the jungle to gather food or heading to the river to swim – even if they were only 3 or 4 years old. In this environment their lifestyle requires the kids to be tough as animals and it showed in their movements and interactions.
An Achuar home has a strong roof made of palm leaves and trees and it may or may not have side “walls”. If an enclosure if present it resembles an American fence with a short gate as the front door. We entered our hosts home in the ‘male’ area of the house. This is the section where guests are greeted and engaged. A log may section off another area of the house – the ‘female’ area. Outsiders are not allowed into the female area, it is reserved for family and close friends. Our host sat in the middle of the dirt floor on a wooden stool and we sat in a circle on logs or benches, greeting him as we filed in (there were 6 people in our group). He wore a skirt, a necklace of bones and seeds, a woven head band and his face was painted.
Conversation was initiated by our Achuar guide. They chatted about their day interjecting affirmative guttural noises while they avoided direct eye contact (a form of aggression) and as their conversation progressed it became louder and louder. We were then asked to introduce ourselves and our introductions were translated into Spanish and then into the Achuar language. Our host then asked us a few questions. Questions that were telling as to what was important in his life; space (freedom) and family. “Do you have much land around your homes?” – “Are your parents alive?” (his had died when he was young). We then were allowed to ask him questions.
During this time small children would come and go through the back gate, food was being gathered and prepared, and we were served chicha (sp?) or manioc beer by the wife of our host (who never spoke). This drink is the only source of fluid they take in. They have adapted to not drinking the river water as it is not compatible with humans. Instead they all drink this liquid made from a jungle plant which is chewed by the females of the family then fermented. The length of fermentation decides the strength of the brew.
They have deciphered that if all members of a family or even community ingest the saliva of the women, they are gaining natural antibodies that help their clan in warding off disease. The manioc beer serves that purpose nicely.
As we set up our tents and explored the village, the sun set over the jungle canopy and the full moon shined on a starry night. Many question the primitive existence of such people but in moments such as this in nature, I question the sanity of our civilized existence.
That night our whole group dined like kings on chicken, fish and roots that had been wrapped in banana leaves and placed over an open fire to bake. I then lay down on a pad with just a light blanket and looked out at the stars. I thought of how lucky I was to be sharing this moment with such a rich culture. For people who, in our eyes, have nothing, they seem to possess a strong sense of what is often missing in our world—family bonds and peace.
The Achuar day begins at 4 AM with a Wayusa ceremony (we participated in this ceremony). Strong black tea is drunk until one vomits. This is a cleansing ritual to start their day. While they sip tea they spend time with family, discussing issues in the village, teaching children how to make crafts, and playing. It is family time and is executed every day for a few hours until the sun comes up. 
It is said that an Achuar is a living encyclopedia. They can recognize each of the 500 species of birds found in their area. One person can distinguish every tree and explain their medical or practical uses. They live in harmony with their environment, where all animals and plants have human-like attributes with a soul and an independent life. According to the Achuar every plant or animal has its own language and they are believed to understand some elements of this language. They know where to fish, how to hunt and when to harvest their crops. The forest is their nourishing mother.
The Achuar also believe that when somebody dies, some parts of the body become autonomous and will reincarnate in species animals. Thus, the lungs and the butterflies, the shadow becomes a deer, the heart lives in a bird and the liver is an owl.
During our Wayusa ceremony our host played his flute for us. We learned more about the Achuar way of life including how to use a make and use dart gun for hunting. We then got an opportunity to purchase crafts made by the village women and children. Decorative ceramic bowls are made by clay gathered in the river beds, necklaces made with seeds and animal bones, and woven head bands.
These people chose to interact with westerners because they believe that if they can create awareness about the importance and beauty of their environment and culture, we may see its inherent value and stop clear cutting or trying to invade their lifestyle by trying to change it (missionaries). So they let us in to be brief fly’s on the wall of an ancient way of life. What I saw were people with clarity of purpose, family ties, strong relationships with nature and contentment. Not so bad for folks who have no shoes and cook over an open fire on dirt floors.
I once again return home to a changed up lens color. This time further convinced to downsize my life (if I possibly can any more), and live closer to mother earth. Sometimes in our convoluted world – the answers we seek are in the simple places and times. Dust off the travel bag, and a world of answers can await.
